This week’s Ingredient: Calendula--My all time favorite!

Calendula officinalis- This sunny orange flower packs a healing punch like no other in my opinion. It is sometimes referred to as Pot marigold, but don’t confuse it with the marigolds growing in your garden. Calendula enjoys a long and brilliant history and has been used to treat a large number of ailments. These petals provide relief from eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, candida, fungus infections, spider veins and varicose veins. Calendula will also aid in healing cuts, scrapes, burns, chapped skin and take the sting out of bug bites. Plus it’s antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antibacterial. Wow!

 

I use it by infusing a base oil as well as infusing my water phase with it. Double action because I want as much of this little guy in my products as possible.

You can make just about any herbal concoction with Calendula as it can be used both internally and externally. So you can make a syrup for sore throats and colds, or a tincture to alleviate systemic Candida or any other fugal infection. It’s great for Athletes foot for instance. It makes a nice tea to drink for general health and blends deliciously with red clover. You can also make a strong tea (infusion in water) and soak your feet or your whole body. A simple ointment is great to have on hand when out and about in case of bug bites, small cuts or sunburn.

This is one seriously amazing herb. Oh yeah…and it’s really easy to grow. It’s pretty and the more you pick the flowers the more blooms it produces. You can pull the petals off to dry them or simply dry the whole flower head. I have no trouble finding it every year in flats along with all the other annuals, but if you leave a few blooms to go to seed at the end of the season, they will start new plants in the spring with no help from you.

This week’s Ingredient: Rose Geranium

Rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) is most often used in the form of Essential oil and although it is widely available, I don’t often see it listed as an ingredient in skin care or cosmetics. I think it’s just one of those things that hasn’t caught on yet, because historically it has been effective in balancing “T” zone skin, acne, eczema and Rosacea. It’s has anti-inflammatory properties which means it’s great for skin with issues of all kinds. Skin that’s red or irritated will benefit from this herb.

  So…think soothing and healing. Plus it smells great! It’s like a combination of Rose and lemon, very fresh and uplifting. Who needs synthetic scent when nature gives us these great smells?

  .5-1.0% essential oil added to a formula is enough to impart scent and all the goodness of this little known herb.

  (What's this about a formula??? Click and find out)

Cosmetic Formulas versus recipes

  What’s the difference? When you start out making your own cosmetics you’ll probably be using recipes. Everything will be measured in teaspoons and cups and your information will read like a recipe for cooking.

As a self-proclaimed math dummy I am not ashamed to say that the whole formula thing scared me, but once you get it, you got it! A formula is the professional way to do things. The main difference is that all ingredients weighed instead of measured and that means you can be very precise even with tiny amounts. It’s also invaluable if you are starting your own cosmetic manufacturing business because it expresses your ingredients in terms of weight and percentage which means you can double or triple the amounts and get a reliable outcome. The percentages tell you exactly what order you need to list your ingredients on labeling. And even more important when you are trying new formulas and purchasing ingredients, the manufacturers will give you suggested usage based on percentage. I know, it sounds complicated, but read on brave soul and I will explain it to you.

  The biggest difference between using a recipe or a formula is that you will need a digital scale to use formulas. Because everything is weighed (even liquids) all the guess-work about precise amounts is taken care of. Digital scales are not expensive; I think I paid $15 for mine…worth every penny! You’ll also need a selection of measuring containers. I use little plastic cups, a set of stainless steel measuring cups, a set of glass bowls in varying sizes and good old fashioned measuring cups. I also have a set of stainless measuring spoons and long handled stainless spoons for stirring. A set of rubber spatulas are handy too.

The scale I own from New Dirctions Aromatics

  So let’s say you are measuring your oil. Choose a container that will hold the amount you need. Turn on your scale and when it shows 0 grams, add the empty container. It will show the weight of the container which of course you don’t want! There will be a button that says Tare. Tare will put the weight back at zero. Now you can add your oil slowly…you’ll see the weight reading changing, so when you get close to the amount you need, slow right down. If you go over, just use a clean spoon to take some away.

  Easy right? Just remember to use tare and you can measure anything from tiny bits to large amounts.

  As for figuring out the formulas? Well that’s dead easy too…because you can start with a pre-made one from the wonderful folks at The Herbarie. They provide formulas for everything from beginner creams to the more complex. Of course you’ll want to substitute your own ingredients, but the formulas provided will give you a starting point and get your creative juices flowing. I also highly recommend this site for finding ingredients along with all the info you’ll need to make these key decisions. They are my top supplier for ingredients in the USA. You can find their “Formulary” here.

  There are lots of formulas available on the net, I just trust the folks at The Herbarie. Google cosmetic formulas and you can find lots more.

  As far as I am concerned, this is the first step to going pro. Using a formula and learning good manufacturing practices will take you out of the “crunchy granola” faze and into OMG…you made this?

PS: Formulas also make figuring out your costs easier. You’ll still have to do some math, but it will be much easier. Finding a reliable site that can convert liquid measurements to weight and ounces to grams will be a big help here. Sometimes ingredients are sold by the ounce and your formula will be in grams, so you will need to convert. I use an app on my Ipad to do this…oh the wonders of technology!

So…what’s the big deal with all natural skin care?

I mean you’ve been using chemical, synthetic lotions and creams on your skin forever right? That’s just how they are made…and why is it suddenly a big deal to be natural, it sounds like a marketing campaign to me, just more BS.

I used to think that too, except that every time I’d try a new cream on my face it would get all red. Of course I would just keep using the stuff because the label/commercial said it would do great things for me. Eventually my skin got used to it and all was well, even if the promised magic never happened. So it turns out that your skin gets red because it’s reacting to a foreign substance, and your body literally goes on red alert. It’s kinda like a fever when you get sick, the temperature rises in an attempt to kill off bacteria or a virus. Our bodies are smart.

These days everyone knows that processed/preserved and overcooked food fills our stomachs but is useless nutritionally. There is a huge trend towards whole natural food…and for good reason.

Your skin literally eats the creams you put on it. That’s why medications are available in skin patches. The medication is absorbed through the skin and enters deeper tissues and the bloodstream. So what you put on your skin affects your whole body.

Synthetic, chemical cosmetic ingredients are like fast food for your skin. They take something natural and twist it into a whole new thing. It’ll last for years on a shelf, but there is very little nutritional value left. Your skin does not even recognize it as “edible” and tries to fight it off.

And all the time we are being told that if we use this or that product we will be beautiful. Guess what? There’s only one way to have beautiful skin and that’s to have healthy skin. And yes, you can feed your skin good stuff, that’s what this blog is all about. How can you make cosmetics that are skin-friendly, what are the best methods and ingredients and what needs to be avoided…and why.

If you are looking to buy skin care that is made with these ideas in mind and are lost and confused (because cosmetic companies can pretty much say anything they like) I would suggest checking out Fig+Sage where you can find reviews on organic/natural products. Erin and Stacie do their research so if they say it’s natural it really is.

This week’s ingredient: Lavender

Everyone knows that Lavender smells great and most people know that it’s used in aromatherapy to calm and relax, but why use it in cosmetics?

Turns out that it works well in the treatment of acne, eczema, dermatitis, fungus, burns and wounds. A bottle of diluted essential oil is great to have on hand anytime. Or you can make your own infused oil (see blog entry: Plant based skin care starts with extraction) It makes a refreshing astringent as well as an effective skin care moisturizer. So…you know…its good for the mind, body & soul!

Is it possible to preserve creams and lotions and stay natural?

The jury is still out on this one. There are numerous preservatives available that are plant based, but no single ingredient will preserve perfectly. There are concerns about the health risks of Grapefruit seed extract, which is widely used in the cosmetic industry.

  I want my products to be natural, plant based and organic if possible, but there is no getting away from the need for preservatives. I know from past disasters (ug! Don’t ask!) that skipping preservative is very risky, as is using an incomplete system.

  There may be a solution on the horizon however. I was directed to Biosecur by Erin and Stacie of Fig+Sage, 2 wonderful and generous bloggers who search out truly organic and eco conscious products to write about.  

  BioSecur is the first USDA certified organic preservative system. Much to my surprise, I found that the head office and plant is about an hours drive from my home. So at least I won’t have to worry about high shipping costs or over-zealous customs officers.

  I have ordered a sample and I will be speaking with a rep tomorrow to get pricing etc. In the meantime…this is what they claim:

BIOSECUR™ is the first certified organic ingredient for use in cosmetics and personal care products. Extracted from various citrus fruit (except grapefruit), it contains citrus bioflavonoids in a complex compound that possesses superior antioxidant properties.

With BIOSECUR™, manufacturers can meet safety-conscious consumers’ demand for pure, natural cosmetic and personal care products. In laboratory tests, BIOSECUR™ exhibits efficacy at low concentrations— with use levels of 2% or less. Plus its 100% water-solubility makes it easy-to-use in standard manufacturing processes and formulations.

Founded in 2000, BIOSECUR LAB, Inc. utilizes the expertise of microbiologists and chemists to create high-quality functional bio-ingredients. The BIOSECUR™ C-series is designed specifically for use in cosmetics and personal care products.

  I’ll let you know what else I discover...like is it an irritant on the skin? Is it cost prohibitive?

Stay tuned!

Plant based skin care starts with extraction.

So you already know that you want to use plants in your products, just like the big skin care companies. The big question is how do you get the goodies from the plants into a cream or serum?
You need to extract your plants into something and there are several methods you can use without needing any special equipment. You'll need your plant material (herbs, barks, roots, leaves etc) in dried form. Don't worry, drying the plants just means the water is gone, not the properties you are looking to extract. The plants need to be macerated (chopped up) for the best results.

1. Oil... You can extract into an oil base and getting the plants in there is super easy. Let's say you are using almond oil. You need a big glass jar, your oil (make sure it's fresh, shelf life is about a year for most oils) and your dried plant material. All you need to do is combine the oil and plants in the jar, mark it with the date and the amount of oil and plant you used. As a rule of thumb, you want the plants to be loosely packed and the oil to just cover them.
Leave the jar in a dark cool place for at least 2 weeks. You can also agitate the jar daily to help the process along. After the 2 weeks just strain out the oil into a new clean jar and you have created an herbal oil that filled with all the goodness of your plants.
2. Water... so basically you are making a tea with your plants (also known as decoctions or herbal infusion). Once again you'll be using dried plants (that's what tea is after all) and combining them with hot water. Be aware that not all water is the same. Tap water is NOT recommended because it's full of impurities that you don't want in your finished product. Get distilled water in a big jug from the pharmacy. Put your plants into a clean dry stainless steel pot on the stove and heat your water in another clean pot. Bring the water to a boil and then pour over the plants. Cover the pot and let it sit until cool. Making an infusion this way can give you a very strong "tea" and depending on the plants you use it can be quite dark in color. This is something to keep in mind for your finished product.
Basically, if you are using tender plants like garden herbs, less time is needed, but if you are using bark or roots, anything that is dense the extraction will take longer.
Please beware! Water extractions must be preserved or they will go bad very quickly. If you are making this bit in advance, keep it in the fridge until you are ready to add it to a product.
3. Alcohol... Yes you can extract into alcohol and you end up with a powerful herbal extraction that's also called a tincture. While this is great for an oral delivery system, we probably don't want to put alcohol on our skin!
If I am making something where I want a strong infusion from the plants, I will used both oil and water to make my product. Lots of plants are not made into essential oils and these methods allow you to make home-made extractions. You can make your own essential oils too, but it requires a still. If you are very ambitious, you learn how to here: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Essential-Oils